Friends, we've been having adventures since we last posted. The South Island has all sorts of surprises for us.
When we last wrote, it was from our campervan, and we were parked in front of a hotel with wireless connection. Just after we posted, as we were working on getting all those pictures up, the wireless started to get flakey. Nathan went to talk to the lady who owned the hotel. I mention this because it's typical of the experiences we've had with people in New Zealand, everyone has been exceedingly kind. This lady, who's name we don't know, let Nathan sit in her lobby with his laptop for at least a half hour. Then we were both there, using our computer. She introduced us to her cat, Mazda, gave us recommendations on our route, and suggested a local bakery for meat pies. All of this, and we weren't staying at her hotel.
We stayed in Nelson one night, at what claims to be the largest campervan park in the Southern Hemisphere. They had a sorry looking petanque court.
I had my heart set on kayaking in a local national park, so we started looking through the dozens of brochures we had collected. We decided to take Friday to make some reservations, do some laundry, and just take a break from our hectic vacation schedule. Which is what we did. We drove to Kaiteriteri, which is at the southern end of Abel Tasmen park. Our campsite overlooked a beautiful ocean cove. Though we were next to a major highway, we probably only saw a dozen cars the whole day. We had a beautiful beach to ourselves. Awesome. I finished reading "The Golden Compass."

Then Saturday, we went kayaking. It was just amazing, and a lot of work. We are rethinking our careers as Olympic Kayakers. We went with a guide, through about 13 km of secluded beaches, islands with seals, and beautiful, sunny waters. The weather was warm and gentle. For those of you worried about our exposure to Maori culture, Harold, our sea kayak guide got us totally up to speed. He began our journey with a blast on his conch shell, and a Maori chant. He told us folk tales as we paddled, and had us singing Maori songs. He was awesome. We ate lunch on a beach, he made tea and hot chocolate. Some of our group left to either hike out or to take the water taxi back, but Nathan and I and Harold and one other guy, we paddled on. We had blisters on our hands and jello arms but we sure felt triumphant when we finished.
As the water taxi drove us back, the water started to get choppy. Harold said a storm was coming in, and we were glad we didn't have to paddle through the larger waves. After kayaking, we drove on a few hours to the town of Murchison.
We woke up Sunday with the plan of driving from Murchison to Franz Josef Glacier Village. But it wasn't meant to be. Our beautiful weather disappeared and it started to rain. Then it REALLY started raining. We got into a bit of a scrape, our campervan died in a large pool of water on a corner of the road. We soon found we were stuck on a stretch of road between two "slips" or what we would call "landslides." Again, New Zealanders were totally good to us. The first guy that stopped said he'd call us a tow truck. The second guy offered to take us to his house (we said thank you, but we didn't want to abandon our van.) The third guy had a rope, and he towed us out of the puddle. Everyone that stopped asked "Are you all right, mate?" as though there just might be a logical reason we were stopped in a large pool of water with our hazard lights on. Giving us the benefit of the doubt.

Once our engine was out of the water, it started up again, so we were good, only still stuck with some new friends between the "slips." It was still raining and windy. An official came by and told us we might have to spend the night there, which would have been okay, since we have our van, though still less than ideal. Turned out it only took about an hour. A work machine turned up and cleared one "slip" and we were back on our way.
Many of the roads were flooded, and it was still raining, so we gave up and stopped in a town calld Hokitaki. The whole evening was rather weird. We kept trying to get a weather report, and didn't realize that the whole country was having terrible rain storms. All of Auckland lost power, we found out later. We watched the campground television, and all we could get was "The George Lopez Show," so we were in New Zealand watching really bad US TV shows. We went back to our van to try to get a radio station and all we could get was one experimental station. They were testing the frequency by playng every single Beatles song, back to back. We gave up and went to sleep.
This morning, it was *still* raining, but we finished our journey to Franz Josef Glacier. We stopped for fuel, and I asked the attendent if she'd heard a weather report. She said "Don't need one. It's windy and cold." Here in Franz Josef, though, we learned what sort of storm we'd seen. The weather was clearing though. As I write this, the sky is clear, except for gorgeous sunset clouds. Nathan and I made good use of the sunshine and took a solid hike to see the glacier. That's right, there's a glacier here. It's lovely. There is apparently BINGO at our campervan site tonight, but we may just skip it. :) We're going to check in with the weather, and if it holds, we're headed to Queenstown tomorrow.
Probably you all are enjoying HOT weather. Take care!
=Jenn and Nathan